Sunday, December 11, 2011

Makeup Gradations

Every now and then the question of blending and color comes up especially for women of color. 
I work with alot of ethnic models I love blending different foundation colors.
MUA's should not discriminate or become discourage with women of color but it happens. 
I see it far too many times. The beautiful African American or ethnic model with ashy skin or chinky tight waterline fluid eyes and hollow cheekbones or greasy (not dewy) applications. I think what happens is some Artist get confused with bigger features and more defined bone structure. The picture below is an example of my work and how minimal of black was used on model Alaja eyes. No lashes and or black fluid lines. and her skin looks dewy and not greasy. 
I do feel I did do the brow a Lil heavy but I like some character.
Compared to this photo of actress Sanaa Lathan I think Alaja is kicking her ass!
and I don't think I'm being bias..Now I know lighting plays a big part in how foundation is viewed in photos but when I think how Alaja photo was shot in day light no strobes and minimal flash and no photo shop was used.  in comparison The actress had so many paparazzi with strong strobe flashes she should not have looked ashen and dried out . Her eyebrows even make me wonder if this was a self application.
 


  In these two pics One of my Muse Princess I used a Makeup Gradation from light to dark in this random picture I found on the net ( my opinion a good makeup artist) by "Myria"seems too washey and blue and does not compliment the skin tone on the model. Her lips look ashen and not pale pink. It look like she just got done biting a a powder donut. Don't get me wrong I think the application is clean but I think the blue base lid and blue base pale lip is not a good match up. You can see in my picture Princess eyes still look soft she doesn't look like she is trying so hard or could fit in with a drag queen at a rainbow bar.  This is just my fair assessment and I don't want to come off as a snob or hating jackass.. but I  think anyone who has problems with Makeup Gradations on women of color can understand what I'm trying to say. Let me know what you think! :)

Model Princess


Model: Princess Whittaker
Photographer: Louis D Reyes

muse/myo͞oz/

Verb:
Be absorbed in thought.

Noun:
An instance or period of reflection

If any word could describe Princess it would be "MUSE".

I met her through a mutual friend on a girls night out event. She was fun and precocious and gave me a twiggy doe-eyed vibe. We became friends instantly. Later that night at the club venue a photographer took a picture of us seven fly honey's. 
 When I saw the results I was amazed by her lean physic and head tilt she inspired me instantly and I knew I had to work with her. 
Princess told me this was her "first" real professional shoot and wanted it to be great!
When I told her the concept which was doll-eye hippie she looked concerned. 
I put her mind with ease with some herbal refreshments(hehe) and pictures of what I was going for. The rest was history. I began to understand how it felt as an Artist to be in love and obsessed with the subject. My photographer Louis was also inspired and wanted me to "share" my barbie. I just laughed it off.

I would like to list everything we used in the shoot but I didn't chart anything. I often get asked about the dress wigs and shoes. Well The dress was from TJ Maxx it cost 15.00 and the shoes were provided by the model. I also used Cherry upper and bottom Lashes 1.99 each and the wig was an old Halloween blue Afro wig I think it cost 18.00, the blond synthetic wig was $14.00 purchased at the same Halloween store. That's all I can remember.  Good Times..:)

Model Alaja



Model: Alaja La'shae
Photographer: Louis D Reyes

Alaja was a great fashion forward model!
I had seen her around and always wanted to work with her. 

She is kind soft spoken and has good work ethic. I was surprised that she was really pretty in person and had a dark pigmented birthmark that covered her left eye.

I didn't see this as a challenge at all. 
Every Honey has a flaw or something unique.  
I embraced her Ethiopian Queen-like features. 
Alaja has great bone structure and a very defined playful pout. 
The photo shoot took place at my house located in Long Beach,Calif.
I had the concept "Hard meets Soft".  She was excited about the concept!  

Styling was fun as well!
The synthetic wig was $30.00, the faux fur hat was purchased as a Christmas gift price $24.00 the faux fur vest was purchased at a trendy boutique for $45.00 the legging tights walmart $5.00 the jewelry provided by model.  Makeup Forever primer #4 caramel $32.00, foundation #177 $38.00, concealer Revlon photo ready #006, lip in "soft nude" #070 Revlon $9.00, Maybelline lip gloss Minty Sheer #01 $7.00.  Eyeshadow was a variation of Lorac, Urban Decay Naked pallet and Coastal Scents 88 color makeup pallet.  NYX jumbo pencil in "Milk"$4.00 as base for lids NYX Auto eyebrow pencil EPO5 dark brown $5.00, Voluminous Million Lash Mascara $7.00, Ultra Liner $6.00.  I used Sigma Brushes and Mac Brushes for the application. I think it came out very beautiful..:)